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Gartelmann Benjamin Semillon 2006

Not often we post details of a wine before it arrives but the Gartelmann winery have such a wealth of information available it seems a shame to keep it all to ourselves.

In a tasting of Hunter Valley Semillon wines by Huon Hooke (issue 15 April 2007) the Gartelmann Benjamin Semillon received the following review:

"Superbly clean, refined, and delicate; a scintillating youngster with many years ahead of it. Subtle lemon/citrus aromas; delicate, low-phenolic palate, with mouth-watering acidity that is in no way aggressive. Delicious seafood wine: it cries out for oysters. 17.5 / 20"

Visit the Gartelmann Winery website for a sneak preview on what is new and on it's way to us very soon.

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Celebrity Chefs Photo Shoot

Yesterday saw the arrival of celebrity Chefs arriving for photo session for our soon-to-be-released food and wine book.

Ralph Porciani, Turnberry Hotel and Resort Ayrshire
Andrew Bennett, Park Lane Sheraton
Mark Johnson, Park Hotel Kenmare and Samas Spa Ireland
Mick Burke, Sheffield College
Robert Latimer, Latimers Shellfish Deli

All the chefs have a chapter each as guests chefs in the forthcoming wine matching cookbook, due for release in June. The book concentrates on menus using very fresh local produce and explains the method of food and wine matching called the triangle method, invented by Andrew Coghlan. Dishes included some beautiful Turnberry Langoustines on a nicoise salad, Denham Venison Cutlets and a collection of Rhubarb.

Chef Mark Johnson of the Park hotel showed his new spa cooking to the full, with light exquisite flavours but less calorific values. Watermelon and Fresh Castletownberehaven Crab was just one of his bursting with flavour dishes.

Ralph Porciani concentrated on strong Ayrshire flavours and textures, highlighting the terrific produce of the region and Andrew Bennett worked his classical masterpieces with Mick Burke assisting on the passion fruit ensemble.

Robert Latimer hovered with his platters of locally caught Crab, Lobster and some not so local huge King Prawns weighing in at up to 600grams.

As dishes were prepared and tasted, Andrew Coghlan discussed wine options with each of the Chefs using his triangle method which balances fruit, acidity and tannin flavours, placing the wine flavour as a harmony to the dish.

"There was some great cooking today" announced Ralph, sneaking a wee glass of the 1990 Chateau Lascombes Margaux, which had been unanimously chosen as the perfect partner for Marks Irish Lamb dish.

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St. Emilion Grand Cru

What does the future hold??

The wine world has once again been thrown into chaos with a new ruling by the French Courts over the use of the term Grand Cru.

The case was brought by four Chateau, namely Guadet St Julien, Cadet Bon, La Tour du Pin Figeac and La Marzelle, who had recently been de-listed from the Grand Cru status which helps them command price and prestige for their wine.

In brief the French wine industry is based on history and not based on the wines being tested individually as they are in Germany.

The result is that wineries which had good aspect, soil, sun, rainfall, position which we commonly know as TERROIR, have the best reputation, as defined by the classification jury. the classifications were completed in 1954 and are reexamined every 10 years by a panel consisting of Wine makers, wine merchants brokers and wine professors. The result of last year's rethink meant that the Grand Crus were reduced from 68 to 61, a decision which the Chateau involved took exception to.

The judge ruled that partiality had been shown as the tasting panel had only visited 7 of the 95 candidate Chateau and as a result the classification changes could not apply.

Now we have a situation where by trying to define quality and give the consumers a steer on what is good poor or better than average, the system itself has folded, throwing the pricing of such wines into an uncertain period.

the nett effect of reducing status on a Chateau from Grand Cru to Appellation Controllee can be 35% of the value, a reduction which comes at a time when the Bordeaux vintners can ill afford to lose yet more ground to the now dominant New World Wineries.

We shall watch with interest as this evolves. An appeal is to be lodged an it will no doubt rumble on over the next 12 months and beyond. Investments in wine from pension funds may be affected and if the terms apply to the other side of the river known as the medoc, classified in 1856 and hardly altered since, the effect on prices could be phenomenal.

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John Higgins

Barrels and Bottles

Unit 5b Broom Business Park, Bridge Way, Sheepbridge
Chesterfield , Derbyshire , S41 9QG England
01246 453399

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