Barrels & Bottles Wine Blog
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The 26th of april saw the Champagne makers from Lallier Grand Cru (Ay) in town for a series of trade and customer tastings.
Thibault Lelarge and Francis Tribault wowed customers with a great selection of rich and ripe Champagnes including the fabulous Blancs des Blancs, made from Chardonnay grown in Ay, unusual in so much as Chardonnay only accounts for 3% of production in this area.
Tastings started with Brut selection - young fruity green apple flavoured wine with surprisingly good length. Next was the Grande Reserve Grand Cru with yeasty and marmity flavours. The 1999 vintage Lallier, even at 7 years of age, quite young with great potential.
I have never seen it done before, but Francis insisted on trying a still unoaked Chardonnay from the Chablis district (Bersan Petit Chablis) before the Blancs des Blancs.
This neutralised the palate and gave the Blancs des Blancs a chance to stand out as a stunning elegant champagne with great finesse. The Champagne was decanted into frozen decanters from room temperature and allowed to breathe before being served into a regular wine glass. This was followed by a tasting of the same wine direct from chilled bottle. The difference was remarkable and the room was split in two halves with which version they preferred.
The tasting ended with a 1er Cru Rosé which showed elegant fruit and rich aftertaste. This Rosé is made in a traditional way with the skin being left on pinot noir juice to accept a little colour. No Bouzy rouge here to colour white Champagne and again the difference was noticeable.
By the time Mark Price and Andrew Coghlan had rounded off tasting with some sweet canapés, Francis was winging his way back to Manchester to catch a late flight back to France. His flying visit had taken only 10 hours in the UK, but sales of over 500 bottles had been generated from the 3 trade and the public tasting. Vive la France, Vive La Champagne.
Tasting review by Andrew Coghlan
Thibault Lelarge and Francis Tribault wowed customers with a great selection of rich and ripe Champagnes including the fabulous Blancs des Blancs, made from Chardonnay grown in Ay, unusual in so much as Chardonnay only accounts for 3% of production in this area.
Tastings started with Brut selection - young fruity green apple flavoured wine with surprisingly good length. Next was the Grande Reserve Grand Cru with yeasty and marmity flavours. The 1999 vintage Lallier, even at 7 years of age, quite young with great potential.
I have never seen it done before, but Francis insisted on trying a still unoaked Chardonnay from the Chablis district (Bersan Petit Chablis) before the Blancs des Blancs.
This neutralised the palate and gave the Blancs des Blancs a chance to stand out as a stunning elegant champagne with great finesse. The Champagne was decanted into frozen decanters from room temperature and allowed to breathe before being served into a regular wine glass. This was followed by a tasting of the same wine direct from chilled bottle. The difference was remarkable and the room was split in two halves with which version they preferred.
The tasting ended with a 1er Cru Rosé which showed elegant fruit and rich aftertaste. This Rosé is made in a traditional way with the skin being left on pinot noir juice to accept a little colour. No Bouzy rouge here to colour white Champagne and again the difference was noticeable.
By the time Mark Price and Andrew Coghlan had rounded off tasting with some sweet canapés, Francis was winging his way back to Manchester to catch a late flight back to France. His flying visit had taken only 10 hours in the UK, but sales of over 500 bottles had been generated from the 3 trade and the public tasting. Vive la France, Vive La Champagne.
Tasting review by Andrew Coghlan
The 2005 vintage of the ever drinkable Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc continues in a fine tradition of flavour and style.
The winemaker says "Pale straw green in colour and vibrantly aromatic, the 2005 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is like an exotic infusion of fresh ginger, sweet basil, and lemongrass layered over ripe tropical and citrus fruits. With great purity of fruit flavours, the palate is mouth-wateringly juicy yet finishes with a refreshing crispness."
Who are we to argue - then again my weakness is for Sauvignon and especially the fruitier, zingy style as typified by the wines from New Zealand. Perfect with fish and lamb courses and even the odd glass by itself just to put a smile on my face.
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc played a significant role in establishing their international reputation and is consistently regarded as one of the Worlds's finest Sauvignons.
The Cloudy Bay team combine meticulous viticulture, modern winemaking technology and traditional vinification techniques to produce a style notable for its structure, complexity and fine balance.
The winemaker says "Pale straw green in colour and vibrantly aromatic, the 2005 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is like an exotic infusion of fresh ginger, sweet basil, and lemongrass layered over ripe tropical and citrus fruits. With great purity of fruit flavours, the palate is mouth-wateringly juicy yet finishes with a refreshing crispness."
Who are we to argue - then again my weakness is for Sauvignon and especially the fruitier, zingy style as typified by the wines from New Zealand. Perfect with fish and lamb courses and even the odd glass by itself just to put a smile on my face.
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc played a significant role in establishing their international reputation and is consistently regarded as one of the Worlds's finest Sauvignons.
The Cloudy Bay team combine meticulous viticulture, modern winemaking technology and traditional vinification techniques to produce a style notable for its structure, complexity and fine balance.
The growth of Champagne sales in the uk over the past year has taken everyone in the trade by surprise, with an average of 1 bottle per second being opened across the British Isles in 2005. Coupled with this a 20% growth of pink Champagne sales and the UK has become the most valuable export market in the world for the Champenoise.
Champagne may only be called that if the grapes are grown within the Champagne district of France. This is around 1.5 hours North East of Paris, laying between the cities of Reims, Epernay and Ay.
There are only 3 grape varieties allowed in the cuvee or blend. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for red grapes and Chardonnay for white grapes. Each individual vineyard site within each village is awarded a grading between 81% and 100% in quality depending on its individual topography. The best sites with good sun and soil structure are awarded a higher grade and these are the sought after grapes at harvest time.
Not all grape growers make their own Champagne. Many sell the stock to the big houses under contract and this is where the rating system comes into play. For the best wines rated between 100% and 96%, these are called Grand Cru quality. For 96% to 93% these are awarded 1er Cru quality and below tis to 81% the rating is AC or Apellation Controlee.
The price for a Kilo of grapes is set by the central board and therefore if you sell your 97% rated grapes you get 97% of the kilo price. The system really works. You will read the blurb from big houses like Moet et Chandon or Veuve Clicquot raving about a high proportion of Grand Cru and 1er Cru grapes in their cuvee. The best examples of Non Vintage brands in my opinion are Louis Roederer, at about £29.00 per bottle, Taittinger at around £30.00 and Krug for a special occasion at around £75.00 Avoid the acidic sharp styles of Moet, Lanson and even Veuve Clicquot as they give little roundness on the palate.
But what about the grape growers who don't sell their grapes, but make their own Champagnes? If you are able to find the best you are in for a real treat. On previous buying trips we have been stunned by the quality of some of the smaller brands, particularly in the mountains of Reims where the Pinot Noir grape gives full fruit and rounded yeasty flavours.
Champagne Marguet et Pere is one such find. Located in the heart of the grand cru village of Ambonnay,the next village to the most famous of all in Champagne, Bouzy. These wines are rich, ripe, full and long. Compare the value for a non vintage style, starting at around £15.00 per bottle with 100% rated grapes. It really doesnt get any better than this and their slightly eccentric wine-maker, Benoit Marguet Bonnerave is one of the outstanding new characters on the Champagne scene. He is a wise man. He has married well, into the Champagne Launois family in the village of Le Mesnil sur Oger, the best village in Champagne (100% rated) for the Chardonnay grape.
In comparison to the richer Pinot Noir dominated wines from Ambonnay, Launois Champagnes are light subtle delicate and aromatic, with the cuvee Caroline being my favourite.
My advice is really quite simple. If you can find a small estate 1er cru or Grand Cru quality champagne you will get great value and good drinking. If you care about the label and the image then stick to one of the better non vintage Champagnes such as Louis Roederer or Taittinger. They don't waste money spraying it over motor cars and generally source exceptional fruit from their contract growers.
Article by Andrew Coghlan for Derbyshire Times "Elite" Magazine
Champagne may only be called that if the grapes are grown within the Champagne district of France. This is around 1.5 hours North East of Paris, laying between the cities of Reims, Epernay and Ay.
There are only 3 grape varieties allowed in the cuvee or blend. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for red grapes and Chardonnay for white grapes. Each individual vineyard site within each village is awarded a grading between 81% and 100% in quality depending on its individual topography. The best sites with good sun and soil structure are awarded a higher grade and these are the sought after grapes at harvest time.
Not all grape growers make their own Champagne. Many sell the stock to the big houses under contract and this is where the rating system comes into play. For the best wines rated between 100% and 96%, these are called Grand Cru quality. For 96% to 93% these are awarded 1er Cru quality and below tis to 81% the rating is AC or Apellation Controlee.
The price for a Kilo of grapes is set by the central board and therefore if you sell your 97% rated grapes you get 97% of the kilo price. The system really works. You will read the blurb from big houses like Moet et Chandon or Veuve Clicquot raving about a high proportion of Grand Cru and 1er Cru grapes in their cuvee. The best examples of Non Vintage brands in my opinion are Louis Roederer, at about £29.00 per bottle, Taittinger at around £30.00 and Krug for a special occasion at around £75.00 Avoid the acidic sharp styles of Moet, Lanson and even Veuve Clicquot as they give little roundness on the palate.
But what about the grape growers who don't sell their grapes, but make their own Champagnes? If you are able to find the best you are in for a real treat. On previous buying trips we have been stunned by the quality of some of the smaller brands, particularly in the mountains of Reims where the Pinot Noir grape gives full fruit and rounded yeasty flavours.
Champagne Marguet et Pere is one such find. Located in the heart of the grand cru village of Ambonnay,the next village to the most famous of all in Champagne, Bouzy. These wines are rich, ripe, full and long. Compare the value for a non vintage style, starting at around £15.00 per bottle with 100% rated grapes. It really doesnt get any better than this and their slightly eccentric wine-maker, Benoit Marguet Bonnerave is one of the outstanding new characters on the Champagne scene. He is a wise man. He has married well, into the Champagne Launois family in the village of Le Mesnil sur Oger, the best village in Champagne (100% rated) for the Chardonnay grape.
In comparison to the richer Pinot Noir dominated wines from Ambonnay, Launois Champagnes are light subtle delicate and aromatic, with the cuvee Caroline being my favourite.
My advice is really quite simple. If you can find a small estate 1er cru or Grand Cru quality champagne you will get great value and good drinking. If you care about the label and the image then stick to one of the better non vintage Champagnes such as Louis Roederer or Taittinger. They don't waste money spraying it over motor cars and generally source exceptional fruit from their contract growers.
Article by Andrew Coghlan for Derbyshire Times "Elite" Magazine
John Higgins
Barrels and Bottles
Unit 5b Broom Business Park, Bridge Way, Sheepbridge
Chesterfield
,
Derbyshire
,
S41 9QG
England
01246 453399
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