Wizards of Oz

An article by Andrew Coghlan for Johansens Group magazine

From our perspective in the UK, the Australasian wine industry would appear to have been the success story of the late 20th Century. However tracing the roots of Australia’s wine industry takes us back to 1788 when the First Fleet brought vines for planting within its cargo and settlers quickly identified the prime land on which vines would flourish. Little did they know then, that the actions of these early farmers would revolutionise the wine industry of the late 20th Century. Indeed, even today, many of the best vineyard sites still exist on those original plots of land, which were uncannily discovered in those early days.

Our journey winds its way along the valleys of New South Wales, through Victoria and South Australia, eventually crossing the Great Australian Bight to end in Western Australia, close to Perth. Because of Australia’s hot dry climate, vines will only flourish in those areas where precipitation exceeds evaporation, namely those areas cooled by coastal breezes and the onshore winds which carry the breezes inland. Classic grape varieties thrive within different regions. Fragrant Chardonnay dominates white grape varieties as in most countries, but is not seconded by the usual Sauvignon Blanc, but by the noble Riesling and the less distinguished but nonetheless elegant Semillon.

Red grapes are dominated by Shiraz, or from its original Rhone name, Hermitage, as in Penfolds Grange Hermitage and particularly well respected in its old vine form. Australia’s cooler climates suit Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot extremely well, whilst Pinot Noir has found its perfect home in southernmost Victoria around Melbourne, particularly in the Yarra Valley.

In fact the potential for growing high quality Pinot Noir in the Yarra Valley led directly to the establishment of Domaine Chandon Australia at Green Point near Coldstream in 1985, after a visit by John Wright, President of Domaine Chandon California. Up to this time almost no sparkling wine was made from the traditional Champagne grape varieties of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay but with 90 hectares (220 acres) planted in the Yarra Valley and Strathbogie Ranges consisting of 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier, Chandon Estates have signaled their intent towards quality rather than quantity. 80.000 visitors flock to visit Green Point each year, perhaps taking a glass of Vintage Chandon in the Green Point room accompanied by a gourmet platter, whilst enjoying the stunning views towards the Great Dividing Range. (Insert Picture of Green Point Room from Chandon)

Visitors to the Yarra Valley may choose to stay at the sumptuous Château Yering Historic House Hotel, a bastion of luxury on the Melba Highway. The house occupies the original site on which brothers William, Donald and James Ryrie settled in 1837 and to where the vine cuttings which they brought with them have had such an influence on the region. Indeed the first vintage in Victoria dates back to 1845 and by 1850 over an acre of vines was in full production when the property was sold to Paul de Castella, who delighted in expanding the vineyard operation. Château Yering won many awards including a "Grand Pris" at the Paris Exhibition of 1889, the only one awarded to a vineyard outside the Northern hemisphere. The hotel now sits proudly on 250 acres of land with almost 3km of frontage to the Yarra river.

One of the great joys of travelling is the discovery of new horizons and that is precisely the case with the Chandon experience, a combination of events involving Domaine Chandon, Global Ballooning and Château Yering.
Enjoy a glass of Chandon in the heritage listed gardens of Château Yering before taking dinner in the elegant " Eleonore’s " restaurant. Retire after dinner to the luxury of your private suite, it is quite noticeable that owners Len and Elly Milner have incorporated a period ambience within the latest modern amenities. As the sun rises over the Valley early the next morning your exciting adventure is about to unfold. Step into the basket of the Chandon balloon, its yellow silk wafting in the gentle breeze and then rising high above the Yarra revealing its true glory. There can be little more exhilarating than floating above the intricately ordered vineyards, contrasting with the meandering river. After landing , a short drive returns you to the Château where a hearty breakfast awaits before moving on to Domaine Chandon for your VIP visit and tasting.

The range of wines produced here is astonishing moving from Chandon Brut, methode Traditionelle, blended from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and aged on its lees for 18 months, the more complex Chandon Vintage Brut which includes a small amount of Pinot Meunier in the blend and is aged for 30 months on yeast lees and the increasingly popular Cuvee Riche, a slightly sweeter blend with a higher dosage. Add to these the Vintage Blanc de Blancs ( 100% Chardonnay ) Vintage Blanc de Noirs ( 100% Pinot Noir ) , a vintage Rose and a late disgorged Vintage Brut with 5 years of Yeast lees ageing and you have a comprehensive range of Premium and Super Premium Sparkling wines.

The time has come for us to move Westwards towards Adelaide, pausing briefly to appreciate the dramatic red soiled strip known as the Coonawarra. This tiny portion of land, just 9 miles by 1 mile, some 250 South West of Adelaide, is perfectly placed to grow superb quality fruit, with a base of pure limestone just 18 inches below the surface and some 4 feet deeper, a table of constant, pure water. The Coonawarra is also only 50 miles inland from the exposed coastline west of Melbourne, cooled by inland shore breezes over the Antarctic current sea.

Wynns is the largest winemaking landowner with over 1700 acres under vine, ahead of Mildara, Penfolds and Hungerford Hill. Many smaller growers such as Ian Hollick produce extremely fine quality from his 200 plus acres, planted 2/3 to 1/3 red grapes to white. Ian is best known for his Ravenswood, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and for his Wilgha Shiraz, both of which are exceptional , but with the cooler climate, his white wines are also noteworthy.

Petaluma at Adelaide buys contract fruit from the more northerly Evans Vineyard and blends it with stronger fruit from the Clare Valley and many others identify Coonawarra fruit within blends, notably Wirra Wirra, " The Angelus" which is 35% from Coonawarra fruit.

Moving ever westwards we can pause to absorb the distinctive wines of the Mclaren Vale, particularly noting the fine wines from Wirra Wirra and Geoff Merrill.
Wirra Wirra is a small winery lying 4km south east of the town of Mclaren Vale in the area known as Bethany. These vineyards were founded in 1893 by the eccentric cricketer Robert Strangeways Wigley, who mainly exported to the British markets,. In 1969 the property was bought by cousins Greg and Roger Trott who have extensively restored the winery to its former glory and concentrate on producing premium and super premium wines. Most notable is the Jones Block Shiraz from a tiny production of 168 dozen, giving rich ripe fruit with typical pepper finish, accentuated by the balanced tannins from French and American Barrique ageing. The Angelus mentioned above is the 7th vintage of pure Cabernet Sauvignon to be named after the famous bell which signals the start of the harvest in the Mclaren vale and the RSW shiraz takes its name from the winery’s originator.