Dornfelder
Dornfelder's deep, red-violet colour is enticing from the moment it's poured. Its intense colour is precisely why it was bred in 1955, for use as a blending wine to add depth to the colour of other red wines.
Although bred in Wurttemberg, where Germany's first viticultural school was founded (1868) by a local vintner named Imanual Dornfeld, most plantings are in the Pfalz and Rheinhessen. In the 1990's Dornfelder skyrocketed in popularity as a varietal in its own right and now numbers among Germany's "top 5" grape varieties.
There are two distinctive styles of Dornfelder. The first focuses on the intense fruit aromas (sour cherry, blackberry or blackcurrant) and is bottled and marketed while young, much like a Beaujolais Nouveau. Other winemakers ferment and/or age Dornfelder in large or small (barrique) casks, and focus more on the tannins and structure of the wine. These full-bodied versions, with more substance and depth, are excellent with hearty roasts, game and flavourful cheese. A young, fruity Dornfelder served slightly chilled is a great picnic wine.
Lemberger
The red varietal Lemberger, or Blauer Lemberger, probably originated in the lower Danube River Valley, where it has been known as Blaufrankisch since the 18th century.
Some 1,600 hectares (4,000 acres) are cultivated in Germany, primarily in Wurttemberg. The wines are rich in fruit, acid and tannin, with a bouquet ranging from berry-like to vegetal such as green bell pepper. Young, fruity Lemberger is often blended with another local red, Trollinger, to make an uncomplicated wine for early drinking.
Riper qualities (Spatlese or Auslese) yield wines that are almost Mediterranean in character - with more volume, colour and a long finish. These benefit from bottle aging, particularly those aged in small oak (barrique) casks, and rank in the premium quality sector.
Lighter versions are ideal with platters of cheese and/or cold cuts as well as BBQ favourites. More powerful, tannic Lemberger wines are great with pates and full-flavoured foods, such as roasts, game and pungent cheeses.
Portugieser
Probably a native of Austria or Hungary - not as the name implies Portugal. This red variety came to Germany in the 19th century and rapidly replaced numerous older varietals. A hearty, prolific bearer that ripens fairly early and can thrive practically anywhere, it is a significant variety in the Pfalz, Rheinhessen and Ahr regions, where it is consumed with gusto as a quaffing wine in local wine bars.
For the most part, Portugieser wines are light red in colour, low in acidity and have a feint, berry like bouquet. They are charming, everyday wines meant to be enjoyed in the freshness of youth. The rose version, known as Portugieser Weissherbst, is equally popular with those who prefer light, uncomplicated wines.
While pleasant on its own, served with soft, chewy pretzels or with bread and whipped cheese dips, Portugieser is also well-suited to accompany platters of cold cuts and cheese, delicately seasoned roasts and stir-fried dishes.
Spatburgunder
Spatburgunder is the German name for Pinot Noir. Wine lovers all agree that Spatburgunder is truly a classic among red iwnes. As the name implies, this ancient and noble variety originated in Burgundy. It was introduced into Germany in the Middle Ages. Today, it is the most important red variety in the Baden, Ahr and Rheingau regions, and there are considerable plantings in the Pfalz, Rheinhessen and Wurtemberg.
In all Germany's finest and foremost red wine grape, yielding mouth filling, velvety smooth wines with a slightly sweet, fruity aroma that hints of blackberries, cherries, strawberries or raspberries.
Traditional German Spatburgunders are light to medium red, with a fruity, rather than tannic, acidity. Parallel to this style are contemporary versions of a more international character - with more tannin and colour, and often, the vanilla tone that is typical of wines aged in small oak (barrique) casks.
At the table, Spatburgunder pairs well with rich, flavourful foods such as elegant roasts and game. Spatburgunder Weissherbst is a rose version which is a delicious alternative for lighter meals.
Trollinger
Trollinger is widespread in Wurttemberg, or Swabia, and in Italy's South Tyrol. Its name is said to have derived from Trollinger and its origin is either South Tyrol or neighbouring Trentino, where it is known as Vernatsch or Schiava. The Romans brought it over the Alps into Germany, initially Bergstrasse and the Pfalz.
By the middle of the 17th century, it was also at home in Wurttemberg, where it is still regarded as the "national drink of Swabia" - served everywhere in the "Viertele", a local round glass with a handle that holds a quarter litre of wine.
These unpretentious red wines are light and fruity, crisp in acidity, and reminiscent of wild cherries or redcurrants on the nose. In terms of colour, light red is typical and ruby-red in better years. Trollinger-Lemberger blends are quite popular and somewhat deeper in colour. The wines are very agreeable on their own or enjoyable with simple fare eg platters of cheese and sausage, as well as light meals or stir-fry dishes.
